So, this all started off as an idea for a dress. I was going to use the In The Folds/Peppermint Peplum Top pattern (it’s free!) as the basis, but instead of the peplum I would do a longer, fuller, gathered skirt. I measured from the waist seam of the peplum top I’d already made from this pattern (see May 23) and decided that I wanted a 30″ skirt to end at mid-calf. Then I added 5/8″ to the top for seam allowance, and then 2″ on top of that because I wanted a wider hem. After I cut out all the original pattern pieces from my 3m cut of fabric – a GLORIOUS sand-washed tencel twill from Patch – I used what was left to cut the height I wanted across the full length of the fabric and then cut it in half for front and back. I also cut out pockets using the pieces from B6453 because they’re big and roomy and also they were close at hand. And, TADAAAAA!
As you have astutely noticed, this garment is not calf-length. That is because the dress created from my brilliant scheme was in fact a horribly unflattering sack of fabric draped all over me. I mean, it was soft and felt nice, but I looked real bad. REAL BAD. It seemed really big on the side seams as well. It’s got a looser shape as well with the regular peplum top, but when it’s not attached to a giant parachute of fabric on the bottom, somehow it’s chic and elegant and flattering. I was exhausted by the idea of taking in the side seams and redoing the armhole binding, so I decided not to and hoped desperately that cutting off a whole bunch of the bottom would solve the overall problem. I cut off 18″ from the bottom (I hadn’t hemmed yet) and then hemmed it 3/8″ turned up twice. And I like it so much better! The only thing is I have to wear shorts with it now and can’t wear it to work because it’s so short, but it was the only way. I think I need to make some black spandex shorts – maybe Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings cut off? Thoughts? Basically this whole thing would have been much easier if I just used the original pattern and added length to the existing peplum. Live and learn!
Also, those lovely roomy pockets I made? Since I shortened it so much, the pockets now drooped down below the bottom edge. Even before I hemmed it. Which of course made me super happy. So I had to get rid of 4″ off the bottom of the pockets and refinish the edges. So they’re no longer as spacious, but they’re still pockets so I’ll take it.
Side note: I like how bias binding looks and behaves WAY better than facings but I am SO BAD AT IT. Like, I have tried everything. I understitch. I clip the seam allowance. I trim the seam allowances shorter. I press. And usually the only thing that ends up solving my supremely proudly standing bias-bound edges is cutting the bias tape much more narrow and stitching it that way. I did all of this (besides narrowing the bias binding) and it was no good. So I pulled out the part around the front neckline curve and made it more narrow and it solved the problem. But I feel like I’m the problem. Emily at In The Folds is a magician and has actual pattern pieces for the bias binding so I trust that her width actually works for some people. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG? Help meeeeee.
Tell me about your visions that turned out to be disasters! Also, any suggestions for future iterations of this type of thing? Is there a bodice pattern you think might be better suited? The end result of this experiment is super comfy and wearable and I’m totally stoked about it, but this is actually closer to this RTW top I have that I love, which is closer fitting and has darts. Maybe the fabric I chose was also too heavy. Hmm… Onward and upward! Next thing will be a bridesmaid dress, and then my next personal project will perhaps be a second try at the Closet Case Jenny Shorts – I love my first pair but I wanna try shortening the crotch a bit before I cut into my Marimekko linen.
